How to Replace Handlebar Grips
Handlebar grips are the soft, textured sleeves that sit at the outer ends of your handlebar, where your hands rest while you ride.
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Tool level
- Basic
- Time needed
- 10-15 min
Overview
Handlebar grips are the soft, textured sleeves that sit at the outer ends of your handlebar, where your hands rest while you ride. On many flat-bar bicycles, they are the primary contact point between you and the steering system, which means they take a lot of wear, sweat, and weather over time. Replacing them is one of the simplest and most satisfying maintenance jobs you can do at home, and it is a great first project if you are new to working on your own bike. The task does not require special mechanical knowledge, and on most bicycles it can be finished in the time it takes to drink a cup of tea.
This guide covers the general process for removing old grips and fitting new ones on a typical flat handlebar. The exact method varies slightly depending on how your grips are secured. Some grips are held on by friction alone, some use a locking collar with a small bolt, and some are glued or secured with an adhesive. The principles are the same in every case: loosen or release whatever holds the grip in place, slide the old grip off, clean the bar surface, and slide the new grip on so it is secure and comfortable. Because every bicycle is a little different, always check the instructions that came with your replacement grips, or ask the manufacturer if anything is unclear.
Before you begin, take a moment to look at how your current grips attach and to note which way the controls, such as your brake levers and gear shifters, are positioned. You will not normally need to remove those controls, but knowing their position helps you put everything back comfortably. Work in a clean, well-lit area, and if at any point you are unsure about what you are doing, stop and visit a qualified bike shop rather than forcing a part. A secure grip is important for comfortable and predictable steering, so it is worth getting right.
Signs it needs attention
Grips rarely fail suddenly, but they do give plenty of warning signs if you know what to look for. The most obvious sign is visible wear: the surface may become smooth and shiny in the areas where your palms rest, the texture may flatten out, or small cracks and splits may appear along the edges. Worn grips feel slippery, especially in wet weather or when your hands are sweaty, and they can make the bar feel less secure than it should. If you find yourself gripping harder than usual just to stay stable, that is a strong hint that the grips are past their best.
Another common sign is movement. A grip that twists or slides on the handlebar, even slightly, should be addressed before your next ride. Movement usually means the grip has stretched, the adhesive has failed, or a locking bolt has come loose. Loose grips can rotate unexpectedly when you pull or push on the bar, which is distracting and can affect your control. You may also notice that the ends of the grips are chewed up from being leaned against walls or dropped on the ground, or that the bar end plugs have gone missing, leaving a hollow tube that can collect water and grit.
Comfort is another useful indicator. If your hands go numb, tingle, or develop sore spots on longer rides, the grips may be too thin, too hard, or simply worn out for the kind of riding you do. Changing to a grip with a different shape or a softer compound can make a noticeable difference to comfort. Finally, if you are replacing other steering components, such as the handlebar itself, it is sensible to fit fresh grips at the same time rather than reusing old ones that may be difficult to remove cleanly. When in doubt, a quick inspection by a qualified bike shop can confirm whether replacement is worthwhile.
Tools and parts you'll need
The tools required for this job are modest and are often already in a basic home toolbox. You will usually need a set of hex keys, also called Allen keys, in case your grips use locking collars with small bolts. A clean rag or two is helpful for wiping the handlebar and your hands. Some riders find a small amount of rubbing alcohol, soapy water, or a dedicated grip adhesive useful, depending on whether the new grips are designed to be fitted dry, with a lubricant that evaporates, or with an adhesive. A hair dryer on a low setting can help soften stubborn grips, and a thin flat tool such as a plastic tyre lever can help you gently lift an edge without scratching the bar. If you plan to trim the grips, have a sharp knife or scissors and take care.
For parts, you will need a pair of replacement grips sized to fit your handlebar diameter. Handlebar diameters vary, so check the manufacturer's specification for your bar and match it to the grips you buy. If your grips use locking collars, make sure the new grips include the correct collars and bolts, or that your existing hardware is in good condition and can be reused. It is also wise to have new bar end plugs if your old ones are missing or damaged, since they protect the ends of the bar and your grips. A small amount of mild soap solution or isopropyl alcohol can help slide tight grips into place, but avoid using oils or greases that may leave the grip permanently slippery.
Before starting, confirm that you have everything within reach so you are not searching for a tool with one hand holding a half-fitted grip. Lay the new grips next to the old ones to compare length and shape, and check which direction any texture or logo is meant to face. If your bicycle uses twist shifters that are integrated into the grip, the replacement process is different and may require additional care, so consult the manufacturer's guidance or a qualified bike shop. Remember that you do not need to remove your brake levers or shifters for a standard grip swap, which keeps the job simple and reduces the risk of disturbing your controls.
Step-by-step
Start by positioning your bike comfortably, either in a stand or leaning securely against a wall so the handlebar is at a convenient height. Look closely at how each grip is attached. If there is a locking collar, use the correct hex key to loosen the bolt, usually by turning it anticlockwise, but do not remove the bolt completely unless the manufacturer instructs you to. Once the collar is loose, twist the grip back and forth to break any adhesion, then slide it off the end of the bar. If the grip is a friction fit, you can often loosen it by sliding a thin plastic tool under the edge and working a little soapy water or alcohol around the inside. For a very stubborn grip, a gentle warm-up with a hair dryer can help, but keep the heat low and move it around so you do not overheat the bar or any nearby components.
With the old grips removed, clean the exposed ends of the handlebar thoroughly. Dirt, old adhesive, and dried sweat can make new grips difficult to fit and can cause them to slip later. Wipe the bar with a clean rag and a little alcohol or soapy water, then let it dry completely. Inspect the bar surface for deep scratches, cracks, or corrosion, especially near the ends. If you find any damage, do not fit new grips over it; have the bar checked by a qualified bike shop, because a damaged handlebar can fail. If your new grips came with a fitting lubricant or adhesive, read the instructions and apply it as directed. Otherwise, a light wipe of alcohol or soapy water on the bar can help the grip slide on, and it will dry to hold the grip in place.
Slide each new grip onto the bar, pushing it on evenly until it reaches the position you want. Many riders leave a small gap between the grip and the brake lever or shifter so the controls remain comfortable to reach. Make sure the grip is pushed fully onto the bar so there is no exposed tube at the end, and check that any texture or shaped section sits naturally under your palm. If your grips have locking collars, tighten the bolts evenly, alternating between them if there are two, and follow the manufacturer's recommended torque. Do not overtighten, as this can crush the grip or damage the collar. Finally, sit on the bike or hold the bar and check that both grips feel secure, that they do not twist, and that your brake and gear controls are still in the correct position. If anything feels loose or uneven, adjust it before you ride.
Common mistakes to avoid
One of the most frequent mistakes is rushing the removal and damaging the handlebar in the process. Prying too hard with a metal tool, or twisting a stubborn grip with excessive force, can scratch or gouge the bar surface. Deep scratches can become stress points, so always use a plastic tool where possible and work patiently. Another common error is using oil, grease, or a heavy lubricant to slide the grips on. These substances may make the job easier in the moment, but they can leave the grip permanently slippery, which is the opposite of what you want. Stick to the method recommended by the grip manufacturer, which is often alcohol, soapy water, or a purpose-made fitting fluid that evaporates.
Overtightening locking collars is another easy mistake. The bolts on a locking grip only need to be snug enough to hold the grip in place; forcing them can crack the collar, strip the threads, or crush the grip material. Always follow the manufacturer's recommended torque rather than guessing, and use a torque wrench if you have one. It is also common to fit grips unevenly, with one pushed further onto the bar than the other, which can make the bike feel lopsided and put your hands in different positions. Take a moment to compare both sides before finalising. Similarly, forgetting to check that the brake levers and shifters are still in a comfortable position after the swap can leave you reaching awkwardly on your first ride.
A further mistake is ignoring the bar end plugs. These small caps keep water, grit, and debris out of the hollow handlebar and protect the grip ends from splitting. If your new grips do not include them, fit a suitable pair. Some riders also forget to clean the bar before fitting new grips, leaving old adhesive or grit underneath, which can cause the new grip to slip or wear prematurely. Finally, do not assume that a grip which feels tight when stationary will stay tight once you are riding and sweating. Give the grips a firm twist by hand after fitting, and recheck them after your first ride. If a grip still moves, stop and investigate rather than continuing to ride.
When to visit a bike shop
Most grip replacements are straightforward, but there are situations where a qualified bike shop is the better choice. If you discover cracks, deep scratches, or signs of corrosion on the handlebar itself, do not fit new grips and carry on riding. A damaged handlebar can fail without warning, and only a shop can properly assess whether it is safe to use or needs replacing. Similarly, if the bar ends are deformed or the bar has been bent in a fall, have it inspected. It is always better to spend a little time and money on an inspection than to risk a failure while riding.
If your bicycle uses integrated twist shifters, where the gear changer is built into the grip, the replacement process is more involved than a simple sleeve swap. These systems often have specific assembly requirements, and getting them wrong can affect shifting or leave the grip insecure. In that case, ask the manufacturer for guidance or let a qualified bike shop handle the job. The same applies if your grips are bonded or glued in a way that resists normal removal, or if you find that the handlebar diameter does not match the grips you bought. A shop can confirm the correct size and supply compatible parts.
You should also visit a shop if you are simply unsure at any stage. There is no shame in asking for help, and a professional can complete the job quickly while checking that your controls, bar, and grips are all correctly positioned. If you notice any movement in the grips after fitting, or if your brake and gear controls feel different after the swap, have the bike checked before your next ride. Riders who are unsure about their mechanical skills, or who do not have the right tools, will often find that a shop visit is the fastest route to a safe and comfortable result. When in doubt, professional advice is always worthwhile.
Frequently asked questions
Q: How do I know if my grips are locking or friction fit? A: Look at the inner end of each grip, near the brake lever or shifter. If you see a metal collar with a small bolt, it is a locking grip, and you will need a hex key to loosen it. If the grip appears to be a plain sleeve with no collar or bolt, it is likely a friction fit, held on by the material's grip on the bar. Some grips are also secured with an adhesive. If you cannot tell, or if the grip will not budge, ask a qualified bike shop rather than forcing it.
Q: Can I reuse my old grips after removing them? A: Sometimes, but it is rarely worth it. Grips often stretch or tear during removal, and even if they come off cleanly, worn material will still feel slippery and may not stay secure when refitted. If you are removing grips only to access the handlebar for another job, you may be able to refit them temporarily, but check that they do not twist and consider replacing them if they show any wear. New grips are inexpensive and make a noticeable difference to comfort.
Q: What should I do if the new grips still twist after fitting? A: First, check that you have tightened any locking collars to the manufacturer's recommended torque and that the bar surface was clean and dry before fitting. If the grips are friction fit, they may need a little time for any fitting fluid to evaporate, but they should not move once dry. If they continue to twist, the grips may be the wrong diameter for your bar, or the bar may be worn or damaged. Stop riding and have a qualified bike shop inspect the setup.